'Una 'Taqueria' Buena' in Restaurants & Dining | Richmond.com / Richmond Virginia / Richmond VA

Restaurants & Dining

Una 'Taqueria' Buena

The West End's Taqueria Del Sol proves that not all strip mall eateries are created equally subpar - some are absolutely fantastic.

Richmond.com

Michele Stuchell
Richmond.com
Friday, August 24, 2007

Mexican Food. To some it conjures up visions of greasy meats and cheeses, fatty beans and heartburn. To others, the mouth begins salivating with thoughts of vine ripe tomatoes, avocados, fresh cilantro, melt in your mouth tortillas, divine sauces, lean meats and seafood...a party for all senses. For those that know that latter, Taqueria Del Sol is for you. Located in the back of Merchants Walk Shopping Center in the 7000 block of West Broad Street, Taqueria Del Sol is the real deal. I knew I was in for something good when I walked in and saw the place full of people of Mexican lineage (always a good sign in an ethnic restaurant!) It took me some time to make my way through the menu. Special orders include burritos, enchiladas, fajitas, chicken, pork, seafood, beef and vegetarian entrees. And then there were the mixed entrees, combination dinners and the soft taco, chalupa and sopa specials (three tacos for $6, burritos for $6.50, two gorditas for $4.75, three Sopes for $5.25). And of course, a children's menu - all reasonably priced. The most expensive item on the menu was $13.95 (shrimp fajitas). Combination dinners range from $5.75 to $6.75; most special entrees are in the $6.95 to $8.95 range. Upon being seated, the fresh chips and to-die-for salsa arrived. Yes, it was that good. I wanted a spoon, but improvised with my fork, to lap it up. A perfect blend of fresh tomatoes, onions, cilantro, garlic and "special ingredients" was neither bland nor overly spiced. The stuff could and should be bottled. It's worth a trip just to taste the salsa. Wanting to try a little of everything, we ordered the cactus appetizer ($2.75) and guacamole ($1.95). Not knowing what to expect from cactus, the cactus looked like sautéed bell peppers, and had the consistency between peppers and okra. Not very flavorful on its own, it was too heavily spiced for my taste. All I could discern was the texture and heat. The guacamole on the other hand, was delicate, mild and obviously fresh. Our entrees came quickly. The Mole Poblano ($6.95) was truly satisfying. Shredded chicken was smothered in the velvety mole sauce, with hints of bittersweet chocolate, peppers, onions and faint garlic coming through in every bite. Served with a zesty Pico de Gallo, a Mexican rice pilaf, refried beans, guacamole and piping hot tortillas, I was content with every bite. The Coctel de Camaron ($9.95) was both unexpected and delightful. Almost like a Mexican gazpacho with shrimp, this so-called shrimp cocktail came in what could have been an oversized dessert goblet, best eaten with a spoon. Finely chopped onions, peppers, garlic, cilantro and the special Casa Grande sauce provided the base for loads of shrimp and avocado slices for this cool and piquant meal. We also had an order of the beef soft tacos. Simple and delicious, each of three flour tortillas was stuffed with ground beef, refried beans and cheese. Who could resist when three tacos are $6? Of course, I could not resist trying the Fried Ice Cream ($2.95). Different than the traditional scoop that was totally deep fried, a huge scoop of vanilla ice cream was nestled in a fried tortilla shell topped with crispy pieces, chocolate sauce and mounds of whipped cream creating a dessert that was too sweet for my taste, but heaven for a sugar lover. More intriguing was the Chimichanga Cheesecake ($3.25). Looking like an oversized Chinese egg roll, creamy cheesecake was rolled in flour tortillas, rolled in cinnamon sugar and then fried, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and drizzled in chocolate sauce. Sweet and rich, I could only handle a couple bites even though the various textures tempted me to keep going. Yet again, I am pleasantly surprised by a local restaurant in a strip mall. For authentic Mexican, I know where to go – Taqueria Del Sol, good job!

Taqueria Del Sol
7568 W. Broad St.
Richmond, Va. 23294
(804) 755-8060
Tuesday – Sunday, 11 a.m – 10 p.m.

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