In the world of Richmond restaurants, one day you're in and the next day you're out.
OK, maybe that's not very original phrasing, but it's certainly true of Richmond's dining scene. It seems that restaurants are constantly opening and closing in the River City. In some locations the turnover is higher than others. So much so that some new restaurants are constantly referred to by the name of the restaurant it replaced. (Have you been to DeLux, in the former Southern Comfort spot? What about Sí, the tapas place where Caffé di Pagliacci and Wooden Spoon once operated?)
Take Konsta's, for example. It served Richmond from its home on the corner of Robinson and Floyd for years before abruptly shutting its doors. Carlton's took over for around two years and closed just as suddenly.
Enter Verbena (2526 Floyd Ave., 804-359-3122), the latest incarnation of the same space. Verbena opened its doors just about a week ago and, though it will likely be referred to by its predecessors' names for awhile, it looks like it's here to stay.
You see, Fan dining and Richmonders' tastes have changed over the years. The corner bar used to be good enough for folks looking to grab a drink and some grub. But these days, local diners are looking for something a little more. And that's exactly what owner David Bess (of Cha Cha's Cantina and Lucky Buddha) is offering.
Together with chef Todd Richardson and Noah Sandoval (both former sous chefs at Dogwood Grille) they've designed a menu of that Richardson describes as "redefined American cuisine." Since America is a nation of immigrants, flavors from around the globe were up for grabs in the creation of this new menu. Creole chicken ($20), phyllo-wrapped Atlantic salmon ($21), Mexican rabbit and chickpea and mint farro ($16) are just a few of the entrees on this menu that tops out at $24.
The menu is complemented by an eclectic, reasonably priced wine list (many of the bottles are less than $30) and a cheese menu, making the upstairs lounge the perfect place to sample wine and cheese. The folks at Verbena (named for the American herb plant) also renovated the space, removing the stained glass and letting in some much-needed natural light. Verbena is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. (dinner service stops at 10 p.m. on weekdays, 11 p.m. on weekends). The dining room is nonsmoking but smoking is permitted in the second floor lounge.
And Verbena isn't the only new restaurant in Richmond. The Phoenician (4401 W. Broad St., 804-359-5590), formerly La Casita Mexican Restaurant, has been serving traditional Lebanese fare for around a month now. The word on the street (and in the blogosphere) has been one big, collective yum. Everything from the food, the music and the atmosphere is a Lebanese delight.
In other delightful news, Café Rustica (414 E. Main St., 804-225-8811) finally started serving its dinner menu. Well, technically owner Andy Howell started serving it at the beginning of January, but asked restaurant writers to hold off on the news until they got the kinks worked out. I, for one, obliged. Affordable flavors of Europe seems to be the theme in this menu, with entrees such as schweineschnitzel (pan-fried breaded pork cutlet, $13), sauerbraten (braised beef, $14), seared fillet of salmon ($15) and scampi e pasta (shrimp tossed with smoked ham and sweet peas, $15).