Restaurant Review

Halligan Catches Fire

At the Halligan Bar & Grill, where there's smoke, there are firemen ... and beer and bar-b-que and good times.

Halligan Catches Fire



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Ginger Warder
Richmond.com
Friday, May 30, 2008

This new hole-in-the-wall bar and barbeque joint sits smack in the middle of the martini-crowd eateries on 17th Street but has taken off like a house on fire ... literally. 

 

Owner Shawn Gregory, a 17-year fire service veteran, had a vision of a local hangout for his fellow firefighters and Halligan is the result.

 

A 1973 Seagrave fire truck that Gregory found abandoned in a corn field has been cut in half to form the back bar. Beer taps protrude out of the pump panels and the lights and siren both work, so be prepared for salutes to firefighting patrons, big tippers and off-duty trucks rolling by on the street.

 

"The food is as thematic as the décor and accompanied appropriately by Hook & Ladder Ale."

IF YOU GO:

The Halligan Bar & Grill

3 N. 17th St.

(804) 447-7981

Hours:

Sunday through Thursday:

11 a.m. - midnight 

 

Friday & Saturday:

11 a.m. - 2 a.m.

 

Smoking allowed. Best bet for families: Visit on a weekend day when drinking and smoking will be minimal. Catering available for small events and lunches.

Authentic helmets have become pendant lights over the bar and departmental patches, photos, hoses, gas masks and other memorabilia decorate the walls. 

"All of this has been has donated by firefighters who've been in here or heard about the place", Gregory said.

 

Adding to the décor, servers wear red fireman suspenders and shirts designating their "rank", from the "pump operator" (bartender) to the "lieutenant" (chef).

 

The bar's motto is "Serving those who protect", but civilians are welcome, too, and on most nights, the congenial owner is on hand to greet you personally. Chef Eric Densley is also an active firefighter, as are five other employees, so that's one thing you'll never have to worry about in this restaurant, even though they've got their own smoker going in the kitchen.

 

The food is as thematic as the décor and accompanied appropriately by Hook & Ladder Ale. Meat is smoked in-house for hearty Southern favorites like the Carolina Pulled Pork Basket, Texas Beef Brisket, Memphis Chicken and Baby Back Ribs.

 

The pulled pork was smoky and tender, lightly topped with a tangy vinegar and tomato sauce and served (as all baskets are) with crisp seasoned fries, homemade "dry" coleslaw and a crunchy homemade pickle halfway between the cucumber and dill mark. This sandwich rivals any of the best I've had from Memphis to Texas.

 

The Battalion Burger was perfectly seasoned and cooked, and The Chief is a hearty steak and cheese with sliced London broil, grilled onions, and cheddar, topped with the signature barbeque sauce.

 

Kids, and the kid in you, will love appetizers like the Dalmations, which are corn dog nuggets with spicy mustard. The place also keeps its smokin' rep red hot with bar-b-que nachos (pulled pork or chicken), bar-b-que quesadillas and bar-b-que chicken tenders. In a nod to their Yankee brethren, New York Hooks is a big bowl of Italian meatballs with mozzarella, while Wings of Fire come in three flavors from Ignition to Flash Over and Fully Developed.

 

A cold Hook & Ladder beer to wash down your wings will do double duty, since the brewery donates to the Firefighter's Burn Foundation for every barrel they sell. This kind of bar food definitely deserves sirens and flashing lights, and with appetizers starting at $3.95, baskets at $6.95 and $7.95, and the rib platter at $9.95, it won't make your wallet burst into flames.

 

A flag honoring the heroes of Sept. 11 is tacked to the ceiling is a sobering reminder that our emergency services personnel put their lives on the line for us every day. If you want to hang out with your hometown heroes, Halligan Bar & Grill is as close as you can get to the firehouse. The only thing missing is a pole to slide down.


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2 comments.
Richmond.com Article Feedback - Leave your comment today!

Yeah, cuz the siren and lights aren't enough!


Richmond.com Article Feedback - Leave your comment today!

A great joint! All Shawn needs is a big fire bell to clang when the big tips get hot!



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