Restaurant Review

A Taste of Europe in the Bottom

Shockoe Bottom's Café Gutenberg is as tasty as ever.

A Taste of Europe in the Bottom



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Ginger Warder
Richmond.com
Friday, August 22, 2008

Richmond’s beloved Café Gutenberg, at the corner of 17th and Main streets, is alive and well, and may cause me to gain 10 pounds in the very near future. I’ve become addicted to their mixed berry turnovers made with luscious summer fruits.

After creating a near panic a few months ago when the Café announced it was closing, Gutenberg responded to the outpouring of support from its fans, and has been hanging in there, serving simple and satisfying local and seasonal foods.

 

It’s European Illy coffee, free wi-fi and bookish vibe still draw the caffeine and web surfing crowd, but it’s the food that should be drawing patrons from all over Richmond.

Café Gutenberg hates to be called a “coffee shop,” and in the American definition of the term (think Starbucks), one can easily understand that. But, the similarities between Gutenberg and the venerable literary coffeehouses of Vienna are striking.


You can order a pastry and coffee and read your morning paper undisturbed at Café Gutenberg.

No server or manager is going to bother you, shoo you along or try to “turn” your table. Like the famous Café Central in Vienna, sans the ornate gilding and architecture, Gutenberg serves a full menu all day long and late into the evening, and has a “literary” vibe with its complimentary periodicals and books for borrowing or buying.

  You’re not only allowed to relax for a leisurely visit at Café Gutenberg, you’re warmly invited to sit and stay a while, reading or surfing the web with the free wi-fi.

"If you haven't been able to afford a trip to Europe ... head down to Shockoe Bottom.

IF YOU GO:

Cafe Gutenberg
1700 E. Main St. 
(804) 497-5000


Hours:

 Sunday through Thursday: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday: 8 a.m. to 11p.m.

Non-smoking inside.



While the vibe is totally European brasserie, the cuisine is contemporary American, and I have yet to eat something at Café Gutenberg that I didn’t like. Chefs Jen Mindel and Garrett Berry use local and seasonal ingredients to create soul-satisfying meals from breakfast to dinner, and the prices are incredibly reasonable for the quality of ingredients.

My favorite breakfast is the aforementioned Mixed Berry Turnover, ($3) bursting with ripe blueberries and other summer fruits. Add to that a cup of nice, full-bodied Illy coffee and for less than I would spend at a fast food joint, I can transport myself to any city in Europe while still being within a mile of my house.

In addition to the fabulous pastry counter, the Café also serves a Quiche du Jour, several good omelets, Brioche French Toast and breakfast paninis. The 17th Street Scramble with local peppers, onions, asparagus, spinach and Vermont cheddar served with a tomato salsa and crème fraiche is one of my favorites for brunch, and I love the Yukon hash browns that are served with both breakfast and lunch entrées.

Brunch is served all day on the weekends, and vegetarians and vegans are not only welcome, but catered to, with inventive selections that go far beyond the typical cheese and vegetable options.  

Vegan Biscuits and sausage gravy, a Vegetarian Mixed Grill of mock duck skewers and tofu satay, and a Vegan Caesar Salad with grilled tofu and a lemon caper dressing are just a few of the choices. Breakfast and brunch items run from $3 to $8.75, with lunch offerings averaging $10.

I love the Turkey Gazon, a fresh croissant slathered with watercress aioli and stuffed with turkey, applewood bacon, cucumbers and onions. The Pulled Pork French Dip … on a baguette of course … is another winner, and the salads are sensational with the local summer produce. The Simple Salad with roasted Virginia beets, baby spinach, candied pecans, and a white balsamic dressing is anything but, and the Paradise Farms Salad with heirloom cherry tomatoes, baby lettuces, bacon, cucumber, pumpkin seeds and a buttermilk-basil dressing is a field on a plate.

Because Gutenberg’s chefs use seasonal and local ingredients, daily specials and frequent menu additions are de rigeur here. Currently fresh fish and summer veggies play a starring role on the dinner menu, with entrees like Miso-Crusted Rainbow Trout and Mixed Grill of Spring Lamb and Curried Chicken Satay. A Summer Vegetable Tortellini with oyster mushrooms, local asparagus, spring onions and baby spinach in a porcini-truffle cream is the kind of summer supper an Italian or French farmer’s wife might make, albeit with an upscale twist.

Current seasonal appetizers include Petit Jumbo Lump Crabcakes with a curry remoulade and Fresh Marinated Mozzarella with a basil and black olive salad. Appetizers start at $4 and top out at $11 for the crabcakes, while entrées run from $8 to $17.

Dine European-style and start with a sparkling Aperitif like the Mont Marcal Cava Brut, and have the Taylor Fladgate Porto as a Digestif with your after dinner espresso.  A compact, but well-rounded wine list, offers nine whites and nine reds with a couple of nice Austrian and German Rieslings. On the beer list, a German Hefeweissbier and a Dopplebock keep company with several good Belgium bottles.

This is one Richmond restaurant that we don’t want to see exported, so if you haven’t been able to afford a trip to Europe this summer, head down to Shockoe Bottom, grab an outdoor café table, and enjoy a leisurely dining experience that offers the best of both worlds … great American food in a classic European environment.


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5 comments.
rikki knab - Email this User
8/26/2008 at 8:51:22 PM
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We had one of the best meals we have ever had in richmond. We've loved brunch and lunch but it was our first dinner and the flounder was incredible, you just do not see flounder on menus very often!


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I love Cafe Gutenberg, but during my last few visits I have felt rushed and unwelcome. Their disdain for being called a "coffee ship" is clear--they do not seem to warmly receive those patrons who are more interested in lingering over the paper and coffee than a full blown meal. I understand servers earn most of their income on tips (and thus turning tables) but I think Gutenberg will push away its most loyal customer base if it discourages the lingering, conversing, pondering, or studying patrons. (PS for the record, the food here is absolutely delicious should you be in the market for that full blown meal!)


K - Email this User
8/24/2008 at 2:01:27 PM
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Great food, pathetically slow service, even when the place is nearly empty. Over a half an hour to get a sandwich, with only two other tables occupied.


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A slice of warm toasted brioche with Nutella and a cafe au lait is a decadent way to start your weekend! This is one of my favorite places for weekend brunch.


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J'adore the Cafe Gutenberg



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