While many Richmond restaurants have jumped on the “comfort food” bandwagon, Chef Jason Alley, and his partner Chris Chandler, should be credited with bringing this trend to town in 2003 when they opened the original Comfort on Broad Street.

Alley grew up in the farming communities of Southwest Virginia, and learned to cook the simple, hearty and fresh foods that were as uncomplicated and unpretentious as the country lifestyle in the region.

Meatloaf, macaroni and cheese, pork chops, mashed potatoes and a huge list of side dishes from squash casserole to fried okra are redolent of Mom's home-cooked meals and every Southerner's childhood favorites.

Alley calls his cuisine "comfort food with flair," but don't expect any froo-froo plate presentations. The "flair" shows up in interesting menu selections like Escolar and Grilled Quail, as well as in the casual, urban vibe of the space. You'll get simple and soul-satisfying food that's cooked well and served in generous portions.

With Virginia Commonwealth University students back in town and a full concert schedule in swing at the National Theater, getting a table at Comfort is a challenge, even on a Tuesday night, since they don't accept reservations. We popped in around 6:30 p.m. and by the time we left, the place was packed.

I started with two of my all-time favorites, the Fried Green Tomatoes and the Shrimp and Grits. The tomatoes were lightly breaded, crispy and served with a tangy remoulade, but the shrimp appetizer, while tasty, suffered from too much sauce and too few grits. Surry Sausage and Potato Cakes, along with soup and two salads, rounded out the starters with prices running from $4 to $9, and the portions were large enough to share at a table for four.

I went for the Grilled Pork Chop with macaroni and cheese and mashed potatoes, and my dinner companion tried the Fried Catfish with scalloped potatoes and squash casserole. Entrées have two prices listed, allowing you the option of ordering two or three sides from the list of over 10 choices, which changes seasonally.

My thick center cut chop was grilled perfectly and gently seasoned, and my cheesy macaroni and mashed potatoes were heaped in mini-mountains on either side. I loved the scalloped potatoes with smoky bacon and the squash casserole with both green and yellow summer varieties, and of course, more gooey cheese.

The catfish, although not local, got good reviews from my friend as well. You can also make up your own vegetable plate, a good option during the summer with so many choices on the sides list. Main plates run from $14 to $24, and since I had filled up on appetizers, not to mention the basket filled with crumbly fresh cornbread and rustic white bread that our server brought to the table, I had plenty of leftovers to pack up for later.

While Comfort does have a fairly extensive wine list, it's their menu of over 40 American Whiskeys that makes them unique. If you're a whiskey drinker, this is the place to find rare small batch American Bourbons, as well as several good single malts and Irish whiskies. Smoking is allowed at the bar and in the booths at the back of the restaurant.

We know why Comfort has been voted Best Downtown Restaurant more than once. And from the national attention they've received from Southern Living, Food & Wine, Rachel Ray and the New York Times, it appears that not only homesick students and Southerners crave Jason Alley's straightforward home-style recipes.