It's been a rough year for Richmond restaurants.
La Petite France, closed; Cirrus, closed; Infuzion, closed; Acapella, closed; Bogart's, closed; 4th Street Café, closed -- some restaurants, like Granny Wade's in Shockoe Slip, opened and closed so fast that reviewers didn't even have a chance to scope out the place.
Add that to indefinitely delayed openings and the (alleged) red tape nightmare that soon-to-be city of Richmond restaurants are (allegedly) navigating for permits and inspections, and it's a wonder that Richmonders have anywhere to dine at all.
Anywhere to dine except, of course, for those ever-present mega-chains that seem to keep cropping up. Am I the only one who's noticed (but would prefer not to report) the opening of a Chili's (and yet another Starbucks) in downtown, aka VCU, Richmond (on the corner of Cary Street and Belvidere)?
But when I got a tip the other day that Fan restaurants Easy Street and Cabo's Corner Bistro had closed, I couldn't believe it. Nor could I believe it when I got the second tip. So are they closed or aren’t they? My official report is: I don't know.
The doors at Easy Street were shut for at least a week and the phone message service is completely full. As for Cabo's, things look a little brighter over there. An anonymous source tipped me off that the restaurant shut down for a week or so, but, according to its outgoing phone message, Cabo's plans to reopen for dinner tonight, Thursday, Sept 11. Richmond.com will keep you posted on the details.
Dining in Carytown looks a little better, though. This year's most anticipated restaurant in the city's favorite shopping district, Mezzanine (3433 W. Cary St., (804) 353-2186), is finally open. Despite a few glitches brought on by a walk-in refrigerator, the restaurant had its soft opening on Friday, Aug. 30 and kept on going.
Owner and executive chef Todd Johnson describes the menu as "globally inspired with regional ingredients." And, in a refreshing departure from many new restaurants, Johnson kept the menu affordable with entrees ranging from $16 to $25 and appetizers and small plates around $5 to $9.
Johnson had plenty of experience and adventures to drawn on while creating this "globally inspired" menu. The Martinsville, Virginia native worked his away across the globe and alongside some of the best-known chefs in the country, including Marcel Desaulniers and Wolfgang Puck, for whom he was sous-chef for two years in Maui. Then the Culinary Institute of America graduate hopscotched his way around the world, collecting recipes and flavors from countries like Israel, Thailand, Australia, Vietnam, India and Laos, to name a few.
It all brought him to Richmond, where he and buddies (and Richmond restaurant alumni) Randy O'Dell and Patrick Stamper decided to open to their own place.
The trio revamped the former HI (and Blue Mountain Café before that) and turned it into an upscale restaurant, complete with covered patio and a second floor art gallery / private dining space. They called on local friends and artists to build the tables, bar and pendant lighting and then looked to local farmers to provide the ingredients.
Seventy-five percent of the menu comes from local farmers and other sources. For Johnson, it's about using the freshest, seasonal ingredients, supporting the local economy and reducing his carbon footprint. Hanover County provides the tomatoes, when in-season, and the butternut squash and beets when not. The free-range chickens come from New Kent and, once Mezzanine's raw bar is ready to go, I bet you can guess where he'll get those oysters.
As with any restaurant that relies on seasonal ingredients, Johnson is using a chalkboard menu that will change with the season, stock or mood. For now, the menu includes pan-roasted free range chicken, all natural ribeye, Angus beef and plenty of seafood. The restaurant also has all full bar, they waited for the ABC license to open. It boasts more 30 wines by the glass ($6 to $13).
Over the next few weeks and months, Johnson plans to expand the menu, add a Sunday brunch (and a Bloody Mary bar) and lunch service. For now, Mezzanine is open Tuesday through Sunday from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. The dining room is nonsmoking; smoking is permitted on the patio. Free Wi-Fi is also available.
Got some restaurant news you want to 'Dish' out? Send it to karri.peifer@corp.richmond.com. And you can always read the last 'Dish' here.