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Karri Peifer
Richmond.com
Thursday, September 11, 2008

It's been a rough year for Richmond restaurants.

 

La Petite France, closed; Cirrus, closed; Infuzion, closed; Acapella, closed; Bogart's, closed; 4th Street Café, closed -- some restaurants, like Granny Wade's in Shockoe Slip, opened and closed so fast that reviewers didn't even have a chance to scope out the place.

 

Add that to indefinitely delayed openings and the (alleged) red tape nightmare that soon-to-be city of Richmond restaurants are (allegedly) navigating for permits and inspections, and it's a wonder that Richmonders have anywhere to dine at all.

 

Anywhere to dine except, of course, for those ever-present mega-chains that seem to keep cropping up. Am I the only one who's noticed (but would prefer not to report) the opening of a Chili's (and yet another Starbucks) in downtown, aka VCU, Richmond (on the corner of Cary Street and Belvidere)?

 

But when I got a tip the other day that Fan restaurants Easy Street and Cabo's Corner Bistro had closed, I couldn't believe it. Nor could I believe it when I got the second tip. So are they closed or aren’t they? My official report is: I don't know.

 

The doors at Easy Street were shut for at least a week and the phone message service is completely full. As for Cabo's, things look a little brighter over there. An anonymous source tipped me off that the restaurant shut down for a week or so, but, according to its outgoing phone message, Cabo's plans to reopen for dinner tonight, Thursday, Sept 11. Richmond.com will keep you posted on the details.

 

Dining in Carytown looks a little better, though. This year's most anticipated restaurant in the city's favorite shopping district, Mezzanine (3433 W. Cary St., (804) 353-2186), is finally open. Despite a few glitches brought on by a walk-in refrigerator, the restaurant had its soft opening on Friday, Aug. 30 and kept on going.  

 

Owner and executive chef Todd Johnson describes the menu as "globally inspired with regional ingredients." And, in a refreshing departure from many new restaurants, Johnson kept the menu affordable with entrees ranging from $16 to $25 and appetizers and small plates around $5 to $9.

 

Johnson had plenty of experience and adventures to drawn on while creating this "globally inspired" menu. The Martinsville, Virginia native worked his away across the globe and alongside some of the best-known chefs in the country, including Marcel Desaulniers and Wolfgang Puck, for whom he was sous-chef for two years in Maui. Then the Culinary Institute of America graduate hopscotched his way around the world, collecting recipes and flavors from countries like Israel, Thailand, Australia, Vietnam, India and Laos, to name a few.

 

It all brought him to Richmond, where he and buddies (and Richmond restaurant alumni) Randy O'Dell and Patrick Stamper decided to open to their own place.

 

The trio revamped the former HI (and Blue Mountain Café before that) and turned it into an upscale restaurant, complete with covered patio and a second floor art gallery / private dining space. They called on local friends and artists to build the tables, bar and pendant lighting and then looked to local farmers to provide the ingredients.

 

Seventy-five percent of the menu comes from local farmers and other sources. For Johnson, it's about using the freshest, seasonal ingredients, supporting the local economy and reducing his carbon footprint. Hanover County provides the tomatoes, when in-season, and the butternut squash and beets when not. The free-range chickens come from New Kent and, once Mezzanine's raw bar is ready to go, I bet you can guess where he'll get those oysters.

 

As with any restaurant that relies on seasonal ingredients, Johnson is using a chalkboard menu that will change with the season, stock or mood. For now, the menu includes pan-roasted free range chicken, all natural ribeye, Angus beef and plenty of seafood. The restaurant also has all full bar, they waited for the ABC license to open. It boasts more 30 wines by the glass ($6 to $13).

 

Over the next few weeks and months, Johnson plans to expand the menu, add a Sunday brunch (and a Bloody Mary bar) and lunch service. For now, Mezzanine is open Tuesday through Sunday from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. The dining room is nonsmoking; smoking is permitted on the patio. Free Wi-Fi is also available.

 

Got some restaurant news you want to 'Dish' out? Send it to karri.peifer@corp.richmond.com. And you can always read the last 'Dish' here.


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14 comments.
Bean - Email this User
10/9/2008 at 10:38:07 AM
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I was excited about trying Mezzanine as I'd heard really good things. We went on a Friday night without reservations and they were able to find a table for us. BUT, before sitting, you are told they don't have menus and asked to view their menu board, which requires that you stand behind a table and stare over the diners' shoulders. The space is not large and in order to avoid completely blocking the walkway, we had to stand on the stairway landing, and ended up blocking servers trying to get upstairs. We were told that once we decided what we wanted to take a seat and our server would be with us. In the process of feeling awkward about standing behind another table, blocking servers and having to remember what it is that we wanted to order, my husband became increasingly frustrated with the setup and asked that we just leave. I can't imagine how tight it would have been had another table needed to view the menu board as well. The dishes looked great and smelled wonderful, but honestly, if you're not going to post the menu in a location viewable from all tables (like other area restaurants) buy a printer and just make some simple menus!


Rensom - Email this User
10/2/2008 at 6:08:12 AM
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We had dinner there last night, it was great and the service was fantastic!


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Up front, I've been friends with Randy and Patrick for years. Just getting to know Todd - seems like a good guy.

First, the "restaurant" review. If I had to choose one word to sum up the food, hands-down I'd say "subtle". I've had the squash blossoms (app), Thai chicken, and free-range chicken. At the beginning, each choice seemed very mild and understated; however, as I continued, the flavors became more evident and pronounced. The end result was that by the time I finished with each item, I was ready to order another serving, feeling frustrated that I had finally "got it" but was now staring at an empty plate. TRULY great stuff and highly recommended.

Now, the "bar" review. Relaxed w/o being boring (think Avalon w/o all the smoke). A nice mix of jazz and Big Band during dinner hours, switching over to a good mixture of low key alt/indie (i.e. Ryan Adams, Coldplay, Lucero, etc.) in the later hours. A perfect place for those who still have the itch for a weekend night out but may not necessarily want to deal with the meat-market crowds too much.

For those in the know, it's most reminiscent of a Tuesday or Wednesday night at Southern Culture a few years back: good food, good drinks, good music, and good people. What else do you need?


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had a nice time at mezzanine tonight. I must say that the food was mediocre but the ideas are there. they probably just need a little time to get it right. also, the atmosphere is lovely and the staff are just right - responsive but not hovering, well-informed about the food and wine. I'll try it again.


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Oh Lord. Another thing this City is saturated with is whiny malcontents who never find anything to enjoy and instead sit on the sidelines and launch insults. You obviously think highly of yourself and your opinion but you certainly aren't helping things move forward... culinarily speaking. You may be surprised to know that I do actually travel and STILL dare to say we have a plethora of great eating establishments. You'll just have to fume about it.


Patrick - Email this User
9/14/2008 at 8:06:28 AM
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Went to Mezzanine's last night.... mouth watering delicious! The atmosphere was great and the food was awesome. Went with three other people and they loved everything about as well. I recommend this restaurant to everyone. I certainly will be back!!


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Mezzanine has got it right, very right. Been there twice. I've tried 2 different entrees and both were delicous. Both times we ate in the bar area as we arrived without a reservation. We got seated immediately. The place is hopping, the service is very good and is even more imressive since they have been open a very short time. I particularly like the way the owners float through the restaurant and check on customers. The steak is simply awesome. Don't miss this place


L Christian - Email this User
9/14/2008 at 1:50:16 AM
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Easy Street CLOSED??? Can't be!!! :-( A fan favorite! Great live music! Pat on Tuedays!!! The fan won't be the same.... I think we need to be supporting our fan favorites or we'll see more of this.


in vino veritas - Email this User
9/12/2008 at 8:18:50 AM
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nope. cabos still shut down. "regret"-ing to inform us of kitchen renovations. :) i believe there is a buy-out in the works. at least, that is what i hear.


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Wow! I had one of the meals at the Mezz! The freshness of the ingredients left me wanting more. The service was great. But I like the decor and the atmosphere as much as anything. This is soon going to be one of the hottest places in town, no joke.


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@ Jeff E. Puhlease do NOT kid yourself. This place is not "saturated" with awesome eateries. You are delusional. Go to a REAL city and then I dare you to say that Richmond is "saturated" with "awesome" eateries. If you would have said "sprinkled with mediocre at best eateries" then I would have agreed. It is, in fact, people like you claiming Richmond already has "awesome eateries" that prevents Richmond from moving forward..... culinarily speaking.


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I am so disappointed that Easy Street closed. They had great karaoke on Wednesday nights and a friendly staff. Were they not getting enough business? It always seemed busy to me.


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Well I'm not all doom and gloom. Restaurants are notorious for turnover especially in a City saturated with awesome eateries. In the end, it means the bar has been raised and the Richmond restaurant experience keeps getting better. Restaurants that can't up their game or fail to find their niche will close... it's survival of the fittest. And obviously the economy isn't aiding in things with less disposable income in some folks' pockets.


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"...entrees ranging from $16 to $25 and appetizers and small plates around $5 to $9."

This is considered affordable? No wonder so many places have folded.

Also, just because you can scrape together enough capital to open a fancy restaurant doesn't mean you've got the business savvy to keep afloat. The Bottoms Up that was located in Woodlake never seemed to be short of customers and I figure that if my household's intake was any indication, they probably did a decent takeaway business, but the store fell in like a house of cards (announced on a Friday that it was closing on a Sunday and half the staff walked out). I heard later that management at the store was barely competent and didn't play nicely with the other BU stores, especially the original. Let's get real about this business, people.



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