There’s a weedy, rambling garden on my back-forty. In season are the watermelon and basil planted last Spring. My neighbor has a still-groaning fig tree and the James River is spitting paw-paws, ripe and ready to plunder, on dog walks.

I have a few bottles of wine squirreled away, and in my pantry is an industrial- sized box of gelatin, as well as dates and walnuts purchased at Food Lion or some other B-list grocery.

The nights are growing longer and cooler and I want to spend evenings eating and drinking wine with friends and family outside, because soon porch-sitting season will fade to grey days and frigid evenings.  

If this sounds like a thrifty way to spend an evening, then, that’s appropriate. Indian summers aren’t the time for proliferate grocery shopping, not when there is so much food at hand to harvest or gather.

This week, Richmond Wine Stock pairs end-of-summer fruits and herbs with wine and a 60s pantry staple: Gelatin.

Gelatin’s history is one of haute cuisine and hardship. Ancient Egyptians dined on gelatin at formal banquets. During the British blockade against Napoleon I, gelatin provided much-needed protein for the French.  

Americans in the 20th century had a dualistic relationship with the food stuff too. Gelatin was haute in a bridge-luncheon salad but humble in a Jello jiggler

The following two recipes utilize a bottle of wine each, half for drinking and half for the recipe. The Port Wine Jelly is something I make to accompany cheese, such as Stilton or Farmhouse Cheddar.

I sliver the gelatin and serve it with bold and salty cheeses that are traditionally paired with port. The second recipe is a light dessert or starter made with watermelon, basil and a dry, ripe New World rose wine, such as one from California or Argentina.

You could also use an Old World rose from Provence if you prefer a drier, more herbal rose. And, if you’re adventurous, add paw-paw to the layers of watermelon and gelatin for a custardy treat.

 Port Wine Jelly

1 bottle good-quality port (I use a LBV. They are a step-below vintage, ready-to-drink, and affordable.)

1 (1/4 ounces) envelope of gelatin

1 cup red grape juice

In medium glass bowl sprinkle 1 envelope of gelatin over 1/2 cup red grape juice, mix well. Let mixture stand 5 minutes. In medium saucepan bring 1 cup of port wine and 1/2 cup of red grape juice to boil while stirring. Use caution and remove from heat immediately after the mixture begins to boil, as the port is likely to flame. Pour into non-reactive glass or plastic 2 cup mold. Chill 4 hours or until set. Serve with room-temperature Stilton, Farmhouse Cheddar,dates, walnuts and/or figs, toasted baguette and the rest of the bottle of LBV.

 Rose Jelly with watermelon and basil (adapted from David Lebovitz)

¼ cup red grape juice

3 Tablespoons sugar

½ cup Anisette liquor

½ bottle semi-dry or dry rose wine, such as ones from California or Provence

1 (1/4 oz) envelope unflavored gelatin

1 small watermelon, cubed

Fresh basil

In medium saucepan, preferably glass, mix together grape juice, sugar and 2 tablespoons of the rose wine. Sprinkle gelatin over the mixture and let stand 5 minutes.

Heat the mixture over medium-low heat, stirring until dissolved. Do not let this mixture boil.

Remove from heat and add the rest of the half bottle of rose, stir until blended, then pour into 8X12 glass baking dish, in my house, this is the lasagna dish. Chill for 4 or more hours, until jellied.

While the gelatin is setting, cube the watermelon and macerate it with ½ cup of the anisette liquor. I use Arrow Anisette, but if you’re the top-shelf type, then sub Sambuca or Ouzo. Put the bowl of marinating fruit in the fridge.

Wash and dry a small handful of fresh basil. Remove the leaves from the stalk and stack one atop the other. Roll the basil up like a cigar and then cut the cigar horizontally to make little strips of basil, properly called a chiffonade. Roll the basil chiffonade in a damp paper towel and store in the fridge for later garnishing. Or, better still, wait and cut the basil just before serving so the leaves stay as green as possible.

Once the gelatin has set, layer it with the anisette-soaked watermelon in wine glasses, alternating layers of fruit and gelatin. Top with basil and serve.