Restaurant Review

Magnificent Mouthfuls

Lunch or dinner, Ipanema Cafe will satisfy.

Magnificent Mouthfuls
Kent Jennings Brockwell/Richmond.com
 Tucked away in the Fan near VCU, Ipanema Cafe is a slightly dim, but delicious, dining experience.

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Michele Stuchell
Richmond.com
Friday, June 22, 2007

In the heart of VCU, nestled in a basement spot, is the hidden treasure, Ipanema Café. Quite dungeonesque, I knew it had to have some redeeming qualities and have quite a following for it to survive more than seven years in the revolving restaurant game of the area. Not to mention the fact that, unless you were looking for Ipanema, you may altogether miss it.

And a treasure it is. I hate clichés, but you could call Ipanema a diamond in the rough (although, many of its loyalists will say that is what makes it so appealing). Dark, funky, hip, vegan, vegetarian, even some choices for a meat or seafood lover, Ipanema is a spot for both the Goth and the prep because the food is worth it.

Opposite along bar inside the entrance is a row of comparatively well-lit booths. But we had to stand at the front of the place to read the chalkboard menu. The lunch menu remains relatively static while the dinner menu rotates often.Eager to sit and have a drink, we chose quickly and sat down. Glancing over the dinner menu, I was eager to come back.

Our lunch took some time, but it was worth it. The Greek Salad ($7.95) was fresh and crisp, leafy lettuce, red onions, kalamata olives, sliced cucumbers, carrots and feta cheese had Ipanema’s sliced grilled portabella mushrooms on top, making a satisfying meal. Ipanema’s BLT ($5.95) was a hit. Layers of lean and crisp turkey bacon, vine ripe tomatoes and crisp lettuce nestled between slices of locally baked Billy bread creating a salty-sweet and refreshing mouthful.

The Tuna Melt ($5.95) was another score. The open-faced sandwich was a generous amount of tuna salad spiked with dill toped with sliced campari tomatoes and provolone cheese. The result was simple and delicious.

The only slightly disappointing choice was the Tempeh Wrap ($5.95). The lettuce, tomato, onion, and carrots were dressed in appetizing tangy honey mustard dressing, which was not so bad except for the slices of nutty tempeh that was too salty and had a bizarre after-taste. Each of the sandwiches came with a side of either a pasta salad of penne and matchstick carrots, zucchini and onion dressed in a light balsamic vinaigrette or delectable sweet potato fries, not too greasy and perfectly salted.

So … back to the dinner menu. I said I was eager to come back and I did. The restaurant was more crowded than lunchtime, which in my mind is always a good sign.

We stared with the Zucchini Fritters ($5.95) and Foccacia ($4.75). The deep-fried fritters were more dough than zucchini, much to my chagrin. The pungent honey mustard sauce added a little punch, but did nothing to highlight the zucchini. The generous serving of foccacia satiated my bread fix, expectedly doughy. Topped with rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper, it was served with a piquant marinara and garlic olive oil for dipping.

Our entrees came shortly thereafter. I was intrigued by the Pea & Edamame Griddlecakes with basil “butter”, asparagus sautee and radish slaw ($13.95). Smashed green peas and edamame mixed with a little flour, soy milk and egg substitute were formed into flat cakes and grilled, highlighted by grilled grape tomatoes and lightly sautéed asparagus. The basil butter simply emphasized the natural flavors of the vegetables and the carrot radish slaw was a refreshing finish for the meal, adding a cool touch.

The Fresh Scallop Romesco and Sautéed Shrimp ($17.95) was as visually pleasing as it was delicious. Six large sautéed shrimp were atop two large manicotti shells, stuffed with sea scallops, creamy feta, sautéed mushrooms and spinach, topped with a garlicky romesco sauce. The flavors of white wine, roasted garlic and cherry tomatoes created a sauce that I wanted to lap up with crusty bread.

Our last entrée was a new addition to the menu, Green Curry Tofu with Sautéed Red Peppers and Onions on Wild Rice ($11.95). The flavors kept my fork dipping in, although had I not known it was supposed to be green curry, I would not have guessed it. More of a coconut milk sauce with green herbs – a mix of basil, mint, cilantro, and jalapenos – than spicy curry, the sautéed vegetables and tofu seemed to drink in the sauce without being limp or soggy.

But the best was yet to come.

The desserts… oh the desserts.

As my mom said, “They don’t come any better than this.” The Vegan Chocolate Cake with Frangelico icing was perfect consistency – dense and moist, a cake that you wanted to sink your teeth into while savoring every morsel. And that we certainly did. The flavor seemed to blossom in my mouth, rich dark unadulterated chocolate that seemed to linger and flourish.

The Mocha Cheesecake ($4.25) was just as fabulous. Creamy, but not too sweet (amazing for a cheesecake!) the coffee and chocolate flavors were perfectly blended and highlighted by a rich butter flavored graham cracker crust.

Those desserts more than made up for the Pear Blueberry Pie ($3.75) and Peach Cobbler ($3.75). The pie was adequate – a nice combination of fresh pears and wild blueberries, with a sugary crust that was at some points undercooked. Adequate, good, neither bad nor fabulous. The peach cobbler was disappointing. The peach chunks themselves were wonderful, tart and sweet, highlighted with a hint of cinnamon but the cobbler topping was severely undercooked and looked even worse.

So now I know why Ipanema has survived and flourished. The friendly staff, unique choices and of course, fabulous desserts have made me an Ipanema fan. Even if it doesn’t have any windows.

Ipanema Café: 917 W. Grace Street, Richmond. Phone: 804.213.0170. Lunch 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Open every day.

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