Technically, I realize you can’t make tandoori anything without one special piece of equipment — a type of oven called a tandoor.

But you can take the same type of marinade — yogurt, with spices such as garam masala, turmeric and cayenne — that Indian restaurants use for tandoori chicken, slather it on cauliflower florets and end up with something spectacular. It’s a simplified version of a popular North Indian street-food dish, tandoori gobi.

I might even say that this is the cauliflower you should make for people who don’t like, or don’t think they like, cauliflower.

The marinade, some of which you save to sauce the florets after roasting, is so tangy and fiery that at the least it will distract them from what’s underneath, and at the most, it might make them realize that cauliflower itself is actually pretty neutral-tasting. Harmless, even.

But this is also what you should make for those who love cauliflower, because they are no doubt looking for exciting new ways to experience it. Believe me, this qualifies.

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— Adapted from “Feasts of Veg: Vibrant Vegetarian Recipes for Gatherings” by Nina Olsson

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